0037 Camino De Santiago

 September 4th 2022

A hike across the Pyrenees

Having had a great month in the UK, it was time to head off on a new adventure that I had been planning for some time - To walk part of the way of the pilgrimage of Camino de Santiago de Compostela - Also known as the Way of St James - stretching some 780 kms across northern Spain.  This is a network of Pilgrim's Ways that come from all over Europe, and all meet at the shrine of the Apostle St James the Great in the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela in NW Spain.  Created after the discovery of relics of St James in the 9th Century, it now attracts not only true pilgrims, but also many hikers and cyclists who follow all or part of the route.  As I was to find out, post Covid, it was more crowded than ever before.  Having never really walked long distances before (those who know of my past adventures know that I normally drive, not walk !), I was not only way outside my comfort zone in the activity itself, but also was to be faced with crowded accomodation and roads which I normally try to avoid.   This was truly to be an adventure of a new kind.  Over the past months I had walked increasingly long distances, but faced with now walking everyday, carrying a 10 kg back pack, (and having had a heart attack in the Netherlands only 5 weeks before), I had no idea of what lay ahead, especially in trying to cross the 5000 feet high passes of the Pyrenees on foot !

Crossing London Underground

Having left my sister Margaret in Milford and caught the train in Brockenhurst, I arrived at Waterloo, and then had to make my way across London to St Pancras - Sounds easy to some, but I am not public transport aficionado, nor do I really understand the London Underground.  But somehow I managed to find my way, and found the Holiday Inn near St Pancras station, from where I was to catch the Eurostar to Paris early the next morning.  I was stunned by the buildings around St Pancras that reminded me so much of some of the museums and buildings around Red Square in Moscow - I felt totally out of my depth !   But so far so good, and after buying some food and a beer at St Pancras station, retired to my room to get a good night's sleep.  

Crossing France at speed

Next morning it was a short walk to the station where the crowds in the Eurostar lounge were just a taste of what was to come.  It is more like catching a plane than a train - check in, passports, queues, security checks - But eventually all was done and the train was called, and I followed the herd.........  Not long afterwards we were through the tunnel and arriving in Paris Nord, from where I needed to get right across Paris to Paris Montparnasse, on the south side.   Once again, I followed instructions I had downloaded from the internet previously, and made my way across Paris without a problem.   My confidence was starting to increase !

I arrive in St Jean

From Montparnasse I was first booked on a TGV train to Dax, where I had to change to a slower train that went to Bayonne, and finally onto a smaller two carriage train that went to St Jean Pied de Port, my starting point for the walk in the French foothills of the Pyrenees.   At times our TGV out of Paris reached some 300 kmh, so it is no wonder that we would arrive in St Jean some 560 kms later in around 5 hours, despite the last two connections travelling much slower. Very efficient and very impressed.  By the time I was on the little carriages to St Jean, almost everyone on the train was a "pilgrim", with hiking shoes and a back pack, and all looked eagerly out of the windows as the terrain got hillier and slower, trying to catch a glimpse around the next corner.  No one, including myself, knew quite what lay ahead !

Day 1.   St Jean Pied de Port to Roncesvalles - 26.97 kms.  6th September.

Climbing up into the Pyrenees

St Jean Pied de Port at night

Arriving in St Jean Pied de Port, first stop was on the little platform to get a fellow pilgrim to take a photo of myself in front of the name plate so that, should I get no further, at least I could prove I had got this far.  That done, I followed my pre-downloaded maps on my phone to my pre-booked accomodation for the night, the Izaxulo.  Bunked in with 3 others, I slipped out to go and find some food - A fantastic French omelette washed down with a cold beer - perfect.  A wander round the pretty little town, with its floodlit bridges and narrow archways, made me hanker to return another time - It was gorgeous. But leave I must, and after a good nights sleep, and a communal breakfast down stairs with some 20 others, I shouldered my pack and headed out of town, stopping first at the Camino Office to
register as an official Pilgrim, and obtain my "credential del pelegrino", my pilgrim passport which is to be stamped daily by every hostel or restaurant where I stop.  This is to prove that one has actually completed the route. Once done, it was off out of town, following the "shell" signs that were

The long & winding road...

everywhere, and the climb started in earnest.  By noon I had reached the Auberge de Orisson some 10 kms of a steep climb from St Jean, where I had hoped to spend the night in order to break up this long climb.  But it was already crowded with people, and the innkeeper said he was already totally booked out.  Not even a bench to sleep on.  So after eating the bread roll I had saved from my breakfast I headed on up the road, not knowing where I would be able to stay - there was really no where else on this road until Roncesvalles, on the other side of the Pyrenees, and some 18 kms further on.  Eventually I just thought sod it - If I get stuck and have to sleep under a tree, then so be it.  I had warm clothes, and the weather was OK, and I even had a thermal emergency blanket if I really needed it, So I set off, on up the trail.

Overlooking the world

The weather couldn't have been better - Not hot, but a clear sunny day with white fluffy clouds in the sky - and the scenery was absolutely superb.  Past a cheese farm 1 km off the road at Arneguy  (no, that would add another 2 kms to my already long day) and on up the mountain, past mountain sheep with long horns, eventually the little shell signs which mark the Camino route led off the road and onto a rough trail.  It always looked as though one was nearly at the top - But when you reached the "top", frustratingly it was revealed that the hills went on up further.  At times it became rather dispiriting, but the scenery was always enough to keep one enthralled.  I passed a shepherd's rough stone refuge hut that was marked on my map, and I had thought might be a possible emergency night stop if I needed it, but it wasn't yet 3 pm, and my feet and legs still seemed to be working - Although all day I had to stop quite frequently on the hills just to catch my breath. 

Path wound through a forest

The path then levelled out for a while through some beautiful shaded woods, where I chatted with an Italian who I christened Enzo (after Señor Ferrari).  I don't know what his real name was, and couldn't understand a word he was saying, but whenever I bumped into him I said "Hi Enzo:", and he always replied with a cheery wave.  He was having serious foot problems already, and was stopping frequently.  Finally, at just under 5000 ft, I came to what finally turned out to be the summit.  Unknown to me I had already crossed the invisible border and was in Spain - And it was 10 to 5, and the sign said it was only 5 kms into Roncesvalles - And it was all down hill.   But it turned out to be the downhill that killed me - it was steep, rocky, uneven, and with my backpack now seeming heavier with

Path downhill to Roncesvalles

every step, and it felt a lot further than 5 kms !  By the time I eventually reached the town, some 27 kms since I left St Jean, I was totally buggered, and even fell over a couple of times when my legs just wouldn't support me any longer.  Luckily the first main hotel I came to had some people outside, and one of them asked if I needed accomodation as there was a spare bed in their room.  I really didn't care that it was in a relatively expensive hotel - Apparently every other place was totally booked out.  (I heard later that some people had to catch taxis into the next town in order to find a bed.  This was getting ridiculous !).  There were 4 beds in a room with a shared bathroom, and after a shower and a bite to eat downstairs, I barely remember my head hitting the pillow. This was tough work !!

Day 2.    Roncesvalles to Viskarret.   13.5 kms.   7th September.

...through little villages

I certainly had wobbly legs when I woke up in the morning ! I was very stiff, but most importantly my feet seemed to be fine no blisters. Today was mainly downhill, albeit more gentle than yesterday, and a pleasant walk through villages and the wooded countryside.   It was to be much shorter distance wise as well as time wise, and by soon after noon I was sitting in a bar waiting for La Posada Nueva to open, whilst I sipped on a cold beer !  This time I had used booking.com to find a bed in advance - I wasn't going to run the risk of sleeping in the fields any more !   Once siesta time was over, La Posada opened up and I was able to check in and get into a small dormitory of 8 beds, and get a shower before dinner.  This is laid on in the inn (for a small price), and is a set menu.  There were some 10 of us altogether, and one couple had actually got engaged during the day while walking, so there were many congratulations all round.  Straight after the meal it was off to bed, exhausted, although I first got back onto booking.com to try to find somewhere for the following night. I planned to get to Larrasoaña, and found Pension Tau for a reasonable price, so once that was booked I could sleep soundly knowing I had a bed for the next night.  

Day 3.  Viskarret to Larrasoaña.  17.76 kms.   8th September.

Boots don't last forever !

Last night I was asleep by 9 pm, and was only woken up at 7.45 am with the noise of everyone else getting up and leaving - One of the advantages of being deaf !  Today I decided to try something I had only learned of yesterday - For a measly 5 Euro, there is a system on the Camino whereby a van picks up backpacks from all the lodgings and delivers them to the next inn that you will stay in.  Brilliant !  So it was with a spring in my step that today I set off through the village along the Camino.  I had also worked out that every village has a coffee / croissant café, so it is easier and cheaper to walk for an hour or two in the morning and then stop for a coffee and croissant, instead of paying in the Posadas for an often meagre breakfast.  On this occasion, the coffee shop in Zubiri provided my morning meal, and very nice it was too, especially after quite a long and steep walk in.   

I was glad that I did get my back pack carried today, as although it was basically downhill all the way,

Abbey at Ilarratz

as there were still a number of fairly steep climbs along the way. There were lots of wooded paths, more cafe's in villages, and drinking water taps for one to refill your bottles - and the water was usually cold and refreshing, even when in the middle of nowhere.   At one stage I passed an enormous magnesite mining operation that was quite incongruous considering the generally quiet and isolated pathways through the countryside. Then it was on to Esteribar where there was a delightful pilgrim shelter and ice cold water fountain, before continuing on to Eskirotz where there is a delightful old abbey beside the road.  Although it was closed, the history is detailed that it actually started as a fort in the 12th century, and then converted into an Abbey in the 13th century.  It is currently under restoration, and a wonderful place to rest for a short while.  As I walked on, there were frequent reminders that this is Basque Country - And they are very proud of their heritage. 

Bar in Larrasoaña

Once again arrived at my destination in Larrasoaña soon after lunch timely about 2 pm, by which time everywhere is still closed - siesta time.  This is very frustrating because one cannot get any food at lunch time !   In this instance, after waiting around in the main square for a while, I wandered up through the laneways and found the Pension Tau - Closed till 3 pm !!  So I sat outside on one of the chairs provided - And waited. Eventually the owner arrived and checked me in, stamped my Camino passport, and showed me to a bed - Even got sheets tonight !!   For dinner everyone was told there was only one place to go in town, so, along with a number of others, I wandered up the road to find what appeared to be a shop, but which had tables in the courtyard.  The system was that you bought food in the shop, including instant meals, which they then heated and gave you to eat.  You could also buy beer and wine in the shop, which you bought and took to your table !! They also provided (for a fee) a delicious fresh salad.  The owner was Belgian, and was a very boisterous fellow, so the atmosphere in the courtyard was also very jovial with everyone chatting and talking about their day.  An interesting evening !

Day 4.  Larrasoaña to Pamplona.  18.97 kms.   9th September.  

The mileages always seem to be so much longer than expected.  I use Strava to measure my distances,

 Peregrino sculpture

and trust that they are correct, but sometimes I am surprised by how far I have managed to walk - Today was no exception.    I decided to have my back pack forwarded again today since I had a confirmed bed in Pamplona, if only for one night - I wanted a day to look around Pamplona, but everywhere seemed to be booked solid for the second night, although since that was a Saturday in Pamplona where there are lots of tourists, I guess it was to be expected.  An interesting walk into Pamplona - At the roadside Abbey yesterday was a sign advising of a fork in the road ahead - One path a shady walk beside the Arga river, the other an unshaded walk over the hills,  Although slightly longer, the sign said that it would be quicker beside the river, and so seemed like a good option.  And the sign was right - it was a lovely walk in alongside the Arga river, with bridges, trees, weirs, and even a man letting his dog swim in the river.  Nearer the town were a group of students on a learners kayak tour - watching

Weir on River Arga

them get their kayaks into the water proved interesting !   The River Arga joins the River Ultzama just outside Pamplona and then I came to the 12th century Pont de la Magdalena, the most important of 4 medieval bridges that cross the river as it passes through Pamplona.  From there it was across the busy road and up the ramp and through a fortified gate through the old walls of the city.  Very impressive.  After dropping my bags at the accomodation (very small, but ok), and having a shower, I spent the evening wandering around the city, enjoying got sights in the crowded main square, seeing some giant puppets that are a major part of Basque tradition, and eventually finding a table to have a bite before turning in - Busy day tomorrow trying to work out how and where to catch buses and trains to get me home in a few days time !

Day 5.   Rest day in Pamplona. 10th September.

Entering Pamplona

Still stiff from that first day across the Pyrenees, arrival in the big smoke of Pamplona called for a day of supposed rest - But Pamplona is a BIG city, and when you have no car, walking is the next best thing - I think I did nearly 20 kms around the city !   Bus station first to try to find out about buses to get me back to trains next week when I finish in Estella (Saturday, so nothing open) so a walk around the ENORMOUS Ciudadella (old town fortifications) which are SO impressive and extensive. After another frustrating visit to the bus station, I then finally confirmed that last nights accomodation was booked out for the next night because it was Sat, so by noon (when they opened their doors to

Pamplona's massive Citadel

Peregrinos) I ended up at the Jesus y Maria Albergue next to the cathedral - 121 beds in 2 rooms !!  Interesting - reminded me of being back on the rigs 30 years ago - with 60 bunks beds in a room and 3 toilets and showers to share between all !! Interesting to say the least, but at least a place to lay my head.  Off to the gorgeous cathedral which apart from being interesting was also cool on a hot day, then I walked the route of the Pamplona Bulls during their July festival. SO interesting to see their route through the centre of town, all on cobblestones and round corners and up hills, (no wonder they fall over !), the route ended up at the Bull Ring and Ernest Hemingway statue, followed by a tour of the Ring. Not as big or interesting as the one in Seville IMHO, but good to see.  Then a walk around the extensive city walls, a quick espresso in a cafe, and then back to the Alburgue to find the “Full” sign up - This accommodation situation is getting crazy !!

Pamplona City Hall

After an evening walk around the VERY busy (and noisy) Saturday night streets

 Pamplona dormitory

of Pamplona, I found myself in the Udaletxe Plaza in front of the impressive 15th century City Hall, generally known as San Fermin.  The Bull Running and the official Pilgrim's Way both pass through this square.   I was able to find a table at a restaurant in the square that served “Bull Stew” (recommended at the Bull Ring) which, together with a bottle of Red, was even as good as Tommy’s Joynt in San Francisco.  Then it was off to my dormitory before they locked the doors at 10 pm.  Oh, Life can be such fun !!

It was forecast to be 36 deg the next day and I had a mountain to climb, so planned on leaving at 5.30 am in the dark in order to beat the heat !!

Great rest day - Not !!  I seemed to walk further than almost any other day !!

Onward in a Westward direction tomorrow !!

Day 6.  Pamplona to Uterga. 18.9 kms and another bloody mountain !!  11th September.

Breakfast on the road

Early morning walking

Had a GREAT sleep in my massive multi purpose dormitory in Pamplona - A bit like being in a busy campsite - if you get up at 5 am there are no queues for loos or showers - Easy !! On the road by 6.15 am and a LONG walk out through the streets of Pamplona to the west, not a problem in the dark as the “shell” signs that mark the way of the Camino are everywhere.  I had again forwarded my back pack to a small village called Uterga where you can’t book a room, but I figured that by leaving early I would arrive early and get a room ok.  The first 7 kms were flat and sped by before dawn came up (stunning ). Then the climb started - and surprisingly I stormed up the path, even overtaking a few people !   I must be getting fitter !  In the small village of St Andrés was a little coffee shop that also served fresh bread rolls, and delicious coffee, and as there were no chairs, everyone just sat on the side of the road and enjoyed their breakfast!

Pilgrim sculptures

Then it was on up the steep climb to the top of Alto del Perdón at 2520 feet- Still quite a climb, but getting so much easier -Maybe I should continue the whole way to Santiago now - Only 710 kms up the road ?    NOT !!

At the top of the climb, amongst the many wind turbines, were some famous wrought iron sculptures of Pilgrims heading westwards on the Camino with the inscription “Where the way of the wind crosses the way of the stars”.   Everyone stopped and taking pics and having a break.  Just over the edge of the road was a separate stone sculpture, which on closer examination was commemorating people from the local villages who lost their lives in the Franco era.   Hmmm. 

Then it was off down a very steep and rocky hill for several kms which really tested the knees and

Starting the decent to Uterga

thighs one more time before arriving in the little village of Uterga. Luckily I got there early enough to get a bed in a 15 bed dormitory this time - Getting almost homely !

If you reserve a spot, they serve dinner for everyone here, so I spent the afternoon doing some laundry and having a couple of cervezas in the shaded gardens before supper.    Rain was forecast the next day for the first time, so I may have to get the wet weather gear out - Make sure I pack it on top of my backpack.   Only 2 more days to Estella so doesn’t really matter if I get wet …….I don’t think !!

Still peddling - And today I really started to enjoy this whole thing 😳.

Day 7.  Uterga to Lorca - 25.8 kms.    12th September.

Dorm in Uterga

Something went wrong today - it was only supposed to be about 15 kms and an

Puente la Reina Bridge

easy day. Hmmmm.  Not too bad in dormitory this morning as many more females than males so our single male bathroom was relatively free.  I set off in the dark again (saying G’Day to a couple of UK bikers on BMW’s that I had been chatting to last night, on their way down to Portugal.). Unfortunately in the twilight I missed a sign to the right and went about 2 kms before the path petered out. Oh NOOOO !     2 kms back…….  Then it was a lot hillier than expected - beautiful countryside, and no rain but hot hot hot and little shade.  Eventually I came to Puente la Reina (Bridge of the Queen) where a delicious first coffee was available (at 10 am !!) and then a delightful walk though the old town.  Gorgeous.  Eventually, on the path out of town, crossed the Puente - And it is incredible.  I think from the 17th century. Looking back at the bridge from further down, it really is stunning.

A quick bite for lunch in Mañeru which was a bit disappointing - More delicious fresh bread, cheese,

Old bridge outside Mañeru

tomatoes etc - But these Spaniards shut their doors at odd times - Usually just as you get hungry !! So I had to sit on the side of the street and eat my lunch.  

A welcome sight !

After “lunch” it got rather interesting - over open vinefields with no shade, no rain, and hot 34 deg sun.  I was ok but passed several people who were suffering badly in the heat or with “dissolving” feet ( ie blisters) !  About 2 kms out from my destination of Lorca there were several people sitting by the road exhausted - So after stopping to offer water etc (no one wanted a wine gum - although I didn’t offer a black one) I ended up carrying someone else’s back pack on my front (in
addition to my back pack !!) for the last 2 kms up STEEP hills into Lorca.  I was absolutely exhausted when I arrived, but the innkeeper took pity on me and gave me a single room amongst all the other 4 and 5 bed dormitories, so all was good.    A hot shower and a cold beer fixed all the wrongs of the day, followed by a communal supper with the others in the Albergue, all served by our host José Ramon.   Life is good.  Last leg into Estella tomorrow and that will do me.  Had enough of this walking malarkey for now !!

Onward just a little further ……….

Day 8. Lorca to Estella - 12.7 kms.   13th September.

Isolated church nr Villatuerte

What a difference a day makes -Yesterday hot and humid, today very cloudy and raining !!  A very happy evening at the Albergue de Lorca, with dinner served for 10 by our host José Ramon. French, Hungarian, American, Polish, and English - A good mix of nationalities and accents !  And a sudden downpour had José and other locals in raptures !

Only a short walk to Estella - under 13 kms, so no hurry.  I enjoyed coffee and croissants beside the road in Villatuerta with several other Peregrinos (pilgrims), and then the rain started again ! On out of the village over a lovely old bridge, and not long after found an old abandoned church in an olive grove in the middle of nowhere. But it was open !  And inside the bare interior was an altar, and a table with lots of offerings on it including photos - presumably of family members of previous pilgrims who are doing the Camino in their memory. Amazing place.  

Albergue in Estella

Then it was over an old steel bridge and into Estella. I found my accommodation for the night which opened its doors at noon (Hospital Peregrino) - Only about 20 people per dormitory this time !  After a shower and clean up, I wandered around Estella, went to the bus station and booked a bus ticket back to Pamplona for the next morning, which would in turnl connect to another bus to take me to Bayonne, where I could then catch a train to Paris and then on to Amsterdam / Almere by the 16th !! I was looking forward to it - I have had enough of walking for now !!  

Estella is beautiful old town with many historical buildings from 12th Century and so on, and I really enjoyed exploring it - but I think for me one afternoon of exploring is enough. 

Start the journey back to Amsterdam tomorrow.

Total distance walked (not including all the wandering around Pamplona !) 134.6 kms.

Days 9 & 10.  Estella to Bayonne, via Pamplona.    14th & 15th September

Inside Bayonne Cathedral  

The long way home !   In the morning I caught a local bus from Estella back to Pamplona (odd to see other Peregrinos walking beside the road, and to complete what took me 3 days to walk in 90 minutes !), and then, after a short wait (which gave time for a quick visit to the nearby famed gardens and mini-zoo of the Parque de la Taconera), a longer bus journey to Bayonne in SW France, from where I could catch the TGV to Paris.  However not for 24 hours because after spending an hour at the station, all trains appeared to be booked out. It turned out that mass domestic French plane cancellations were causing many to travel by train this weekend.

But Bayonne is AMAZING. At the confluence of 2 rivers (Adour and Nive) it is a delightful Basque city steeped in history, with structures and fortifications having their origins as far back as the 4th century.   The Cathedral and cloisters are superb, the architecture amazing, and even better, the shops and cafes do not shut down for a siesta just when you want to eat because we are back in

Buildings in Bayonne

France !

I had a most enjoyable 24 hours exploring Bayonne and now just the early morning TGV train to catch back to Paris, and then, after crossing from Montparnasse to Gare du Nord, the Thalys train from Paris to Amsterdam and to son Nick and family’s home for a week.   Photos tell a better story of Bayonne than words, I think.  

Nearly home………

A black wine gum trip ?  

As a postscript to the journey to Amsterdam, the chaos caused by the mass cancellation of internal French flights continued to hinder me.  

I got to Paris Nord well before my booked 8.30 pm train, but was unable to catch an earlier train because they were all booked solid.  They even had very strict and officious guards at the platform entrances to make sure people didn't sneak onto trains without the correct tickets.  And French stations don't provide waiting area seats - So I spent some 7 hours sitting on hard concrete floors waiting of my evening train.   I eventually arrived in Amsterdam totally exhausted, and very happy to see Nick and Janet there to meet me and drive me home !

There are many more photos of this amazing trip, which you can find here :-  https://photos.app.goo.gl/ujmeLAZT1K7pGbRE7